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http://www.nypress.com/article-20077-busted_.html Here is the link to the article written in the NY Press about the silkscreen T-shirts created by Vanessa Bucci AKA Blue Tape Crew The Article is pasted below if you are to lazy to click on the link thanks!
BTC Forever
WE LIVE IN an era of unrivaled design choices. Due to technological
advances, graphic artists can now easily market and sell their work,
reaching an audience inconceivable just a few years ago. Those who like
to prove their individuality by wearing it can buy original works
printed or silkscreened on T-shirts online, at chain stores or off a
folding table on the street. Wait. That’s where things get tricky.
While
big-box retailers such as the Virgin Megastore and Circuit City have
recently shuttered, Union Square remains the ideal marketplace for the
do-it-yourself entrepreneur, and dozens of people can be found at
various points throughout the day hocking their wares. A perfect place
to sell some T-shirts with original designs by a young local artist. At
least that’s what Vanessa Bucci thought. A slender young brunette often
clad in the clothing she makes, Bucci was selling her silkscreened
T-shirts on a table located alongside Union Square West when a police
officer approached her and gave her a ticket for “vending apparel
without a parks permit.”
“He just said, ‘You can’t sell these
kinds of shirts here,’ threw them in a bag and walked away,” explains
Bucci, referring to NYPD Officer Omar Malcolm. “He’s been harassing me
since ‘07, but I’ve never had anything taken away before. I think it’s
because he was flirting with one of my friends, and she was ignoring
him.”
Bucci eventually got her shirts back and the ticket thrown out because, as she later learned, she hadn’t really violated a law.
The
New York City Department of Consumer Affairs requires a general vending
license for the sale of crafts—which includes jewelry, leather goods
and clothing. These permits are in short supply and are awarded to
veterans (for free) and to 853 petitioners a year at costs that can
reach into the thousands. Thanks to the First Amendment books, T-
shirts and pins bearing political messages and original visual art are
protected from vendor license requirements.
Bucci and other
graphic designers regard their work as original art, but printed
clothing falls into a legal gray area thanks to a 2004 court case,
Mastrovincenzo v. the City of New York, that debated the artistic merit
of graffiti-painted clothes. The outcome set a precedent: While these
painted clothes did not require permits, since they had a
“predominantly expressive purpose,” generally the sale of painted
clothing “is not necessarily expressive,” and simply a method to avoid
the laws regarding permits, leaving each subsequent case to individual
scrutiny by police and the judicial system.
Ironically,
Bucci began by selling her designs as wall-mountable prints. People
liked the designs but few would actually commit to purchasing them. By
switching to T-shirts, Bucci’s sales increased exponentially.
And
that’s why we are the hypocrites. We congratulate struggling local
designers and appreciate the expression of their art, however, the
moment one turns a profit from their efforts, we call them a “sell-out”
and question the sincerity of their artistic expression. Nobody is safe
from being the person who is “just trying to sell another T-shirt.”
“T-SHIRTS
ARE THE most common form of cottage industry,” says School of Visual
Arts professor Steven Heller, explaining why graphic artists turn
toward apparel to promote their artwork. A specialist in the history of
illustration and graphic design, Heller is also the co-author of The
Design Entrepreneur: Turning Graphic Design Into Goods That Sell. “They
are fairly easy to produce, but ideas are precious,” he explains. “It
all depends on whether the image or message touches a chord.”
Americans
spend close to $2 billion annually on shirts, according to a 2002
Economic Census study, and more and more people want to get in on that
action.
Jason Laurits is a Brooklyn-based designer who works
full-time on his “Paste” clothing line of silkscreened shirts. He often
sells his clothing at the Young Designers Market in Soho. Although at
first glance he blends in with the many young designers across New
York, hawking his wares from a table on the weekends, Laurits’ designs
are quirky and clever: one newer shirt celebrates New York City,
featuring a Swiss Army knife with the regular tools replaced by images
of the Chrysler building and a pigeon. Another design uses an antique
advertisement of a woman wearing a bustle and a man in a top hat,
saying, “Damn girl.”
Laurits sees his own success as
coinciding with the “arms race of who could get the coolest graphic
T-shirt.” He noted this trend over the past decade among young creative
types—and he was in the right place at the right time when he started
silk-screening. The “Damn girl” T-shirt is no longer on his sales table
since, he shyly admits, Bloomingdale's began selling it in its stores,
along with several of his other original designs. “I didn’t want to
annoy the buyer,” Laurits says.
Insisting on working only in
creative fields, Laurits began the T-shirt business after attempting a
singing career in London. After he screen-printed one of his concert
posters on a shirt for a friend, and it turned out to be popular, he
began printing-by-hand multiple shirts.
“But now I really
question myself!” he says in relation recent success with
Bloomingdales. “Am I no longer the ‘local Brooklyn designer’ because I
‘sold out’? Isn’t sponsorship every artist’s dream?”
Laurits’
success now allows him to farm out the hand-printing to an independent
studio. He spends his time taking care of the business and working on
designs—often repurposing old photographs and other images to create
his signature “not-so-artsy and not-so-serious” approach. He feels this
edge makes his shirts unique and competitive.
In “balancing
business with art,” as he calls it, Laurits admits to creating images
that he wasn’t particularly married to because he knew they would
sell—allowing him to produce less popular shirts with designs he really
loved.
ARTISTS SERIOUS ABOUT selling graphic
T-shirts in New York usually silkscreen their designs themselves. The
hand-powered process—time consuming but relatively inexpensive—makes
designs that are perfectly stained into the cotton, leaving none of the
rough textures of an iron-on transfer or direct-ink printing. Every
designer I spoke with for this article insisted that it was the only
way to produce high-quality graphic prints, and most referred to the
craft as an “art in itself.”
Jackson Vandeberg, a lanky 26-year-old, is a freelance
graphic designer who grew up on the Lower East Side. He creates shirts
at ABC No Rio, an artists’ community center in his neighborhood, and
experiments with color and texture by mixing together different shades
of ink each time he creates a one-of-akind shirt. This process sets him
apart from some of the other artists the studio hosts, most of whom
reproduce the same images and colors multiple times.
During a
visit to ABC No Rio, I watched Vandeberg print a stylized graphic of
his own design depicting various Lower East Side landmarks.
First,
a fine mesh screen is prepared as a stencil: a rubbery, light-sensitive
emulsion is spread over the mesh so that, once dried, an image can be
burned in a process similar to photographic film. The emulsion washes
away wherever strong fluorescent lights have hit the chemical, creating
a stencil of the often-intricate images.
Pouring different
colored inks over his screen, Vandeberg used a sort of hard-edged
squeegee to push the inks through the stencil onto a white T-shirt.
Because he mixes different colors each time, it takes him at least 30
minutes to complete a single shirt. His resulting color patterns would
be hard to reproduce using a computer: the vibrant reds and yellows or
teal and magenta streak
across the designs as though viewing an artist’s palette through the
lens of Vandeberg’s graphic art.
He sells some of his T-shirts at
Reciprocal Skateboards on East 11th Street and uses the income to buy
new materials. “For me, it’s just an excuse to get away from the
computer, relax and do something unique,” Vandeberg explained.
Running
the ABC No Rio print shop is Garry Boake, a punk rock-outfitted,
multi-pierced guy in his forties, with a studded leather patch over his
right eye. Boake has been screening T-shirts since 1982 and got started
by making and selling bootleg concert shirts for $5 outside of Grateful
Dead, Frank Zappa and Missing Persons shows, among others. The Long
Island–based artist works at ABC No Rio out of love. “Silk-screening is
fun,” he said. “We try to avoid the perfect lines of graphic printouts;
those look so sterile. Also, you have much more control over the
texture of your shirt art with screening—iron-on transfers just don’t
have the same quality.”
The other printers watch attentively
as Boake pours emulsion over an empty mesh screen and smoothes it out
using the plastic squeegee.
“This drawing took me four months
to create,” Boake explained when asked about the art of silk-screening.
He points to the intricate dragon that has been delicately printed in
white onto his black T-shirt. “But getting white on black like this
really requires a lot of precision and patience.”
BUCCI NO LONGER sells her work in Union
Square. She received three summonses since 2007, the judges throwing
out the tickets each time, and she was fed up the NYPD harassment. Now
her clothing and bags—silk-screened with abstract renderings of
photographed industrial architecture and electrical equipment—sell in
Live Fast!, a store in the Lower East Side owned by designer Cecelia
Anton.
Anton seeks to clothe people with highly individual
style and is thrilled to sponsor someone like Bucci. “We were one of
the first stores to carry Ed Hardy,” Anton says boastfully, referring
to the tattoo artist’s designs bedazzled on T-shirts seen from Staten
Island to San Diego. Because of his subsequent popularity (and uncool
status), Anton no longer carries the designer at her store.
Although
Bucci wants to make a living from her design work, by no means does she
intend to change her artwork to appeal to a mass audience, she says. In
this way, she is a good fit at Live Fast!, as the store’s concept is a
highly individualized style. “Sure, I want to be successful, who
doesn’t?” she says. “But I don’t want meatheads to wear my stuff.”
But
plenty of others still attempt to sell apparel on the city streets on
any given day. I spoke to one artist in Union Square, a Ukrainian
native who didn’t want his name used, who sells colorful and
intricately silkscreened blouses affixed with stickers that read NO WAR
and PEACE.
He
claims some buyers may keep these “decorations,”
others might remove the stickers at their discretion, eventually
admitting that it’s a “minor protection” against police harassment. He
has also been fined and appeared in court over his vending. A few yards
away, another vendor who refused to be named also spoke of tickets and
court visits after selling his hand-painted clothing.
“[The
judge] said, ‘This is your artwork!’ and threw the case out,” he
explains. Now he paints WORLD PEACE along the lower-back of the shirts.
“This way, it’s extra protection against getting any tickets.” Both
artists make use of the loophole in which T-shirts of a “political
nature” require no vendor’s permit. None of the vendors with tables
full of Obama pins and shirts would comment beyond saying that the
police don’t bother them and their business, which one described as
going “good.”
Robert Lederman is an artist and president of the advocacy
group A.R.T.I.S.T. (Artists’ Response To Illegal State Tactics). He
finds the current state of vending laws to be an embarrassment. Despite
fighting in major legal battles, winning six federal cases in favor of
vendors, Lederman claims that the complex laws, inconsistent
interpretation by judges and “each of the 40,000 NYPD officers” make
selling work on the street tough for artists.
“Even the
legislators who wrote [the laws] can’t understand them and complain
about it publicly,” he insists. “There’s no consistency on how one
judge is going to rule versus another, and as for what’s considered
political, that’s totally objective—you could make anything up and say
it’s political, from a piece of shit to an ice cream cone or a
rainbow.”
Mastrovincenzo v. the City of New York has never
been appealed, so street artists are entirely under the whim and
scrutiny of individual judges and police officers. Additionally,
although the law protects prints as artwork, it never stipulates what
materials are appropriate for printing—by taking a T- shirt, and
mounting it in a frame, one could effectively bypass the law.
“If you
took these definitions and went to the main New York art museums,” says
Lederman, “you’d have to throw out two thirds of what is there, including
all the jewelry, pottery, and coffins from the Egyptians and Greeks.”
Although
he doesn’t sell his apparel on the street, clothing designer
Christopher Sauvé received a lot of attention in the New York fashion
scene for his Save Anna! T-shirts, which depict Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and reference her possible replacement by French Vogue counterpart
Carine Roitfeld. After partnering with downtown boutique Seven to sell
the Wintour shirts, Sauvé’s latest sold-out creation is a “Fuck the
Recession” shirt, with an image of a young man burning money.
“I
originally made the [Wintour image] because it was funny, and I wanted
to get my name out to artistic directors to see what I’m doing,” says
Sauvé. “I sent it to friends, telling them to use it and make posters
or T- shirts and suddenly all of these people wanted to wear it as a
statement about the fashion industry.” The shirts sold for $65 apiece
through his partnership with Seven.
Despite interest in his design—after it was featured in German Vogue his
website crashed from the volume of hits and Perez Hilton made a video
wearing the shirt while performing a wacky dance—Sauvé wants to
maintain his position as an artist.
“The T-shirt is my canvas.
What’s the difference between that and an artist’s canvas?” asks Sauvé.
“It’s been such a thrill, when the sidewalk becomes your gallery. I’ll
keep making these until nobody wants them anymore, but it stops being
art when it stops being fun and is just about producing dollars.”
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